Category: Fashion

After studying bespoke tailoring at London College of Fashion, followed by an apprenticeship at Huntsman on Savile Row, Kimberley Lawton started her own tailoring business. Based in London, Lawton Fashion House serves clients, both men and women, with superbly fitting tailored suits. Song Bloemendaal spoke with Kimberley Lawton to find out what drives the Lawton tailoring process and what makes a suit a typical Lawton suit.

by Song Bloemendaal

Kimberley, you worked for Huntsman, a well-known tailoring house on Savile Row London. What made you decide to start your own tailoring business?
Huntsman was an amazing place for me. I learned so much there and the turnaround was very quick. Pattern cutting and the tailoring process were definitely where my interests lay. The aesthetic focused a lot on hunting wear, tweeds, a traditional English countryside feel as well as business suits. I wanted to be able to create something that reflected my own outlook on bespoke tailoring. I decided to start my own tailoring business so that I could be creatively fulfilled as well as technically.

Why did you feel the need to bring your vision on bespoke tailoring into the world?
When I started the trade, there weren’t many places that cut a suit for a woman. They cut a man’s suit for a woman, rather than a woman’s suit. At school I hated wearing a blazer because it didn’t fit properly. I still don’t buy ready-to-wear jackets that don’t fit. I want to look like a woman. I want a jacket to give me a sculpted waist, accentuated hips and it should fit my bust. There weren’t many places at Savile Row that would make a jacket like that. So I made such a jacket myself and realised that I’d love to do this for other women and make them feel confident, sexy and powerful, as I do when I wear my suit.

Both men and women come to you for a bespoke suit. Do women come for different reasons than men?
Most male customers are familiar with the steps in bespoke tailoring and often know what kind of suit they want, the colour, the type of jacket and so on. Whereas for women the motive for a bespoke suit is important and how they want to feel in it. Their wishes are more focused on the silhouette that the suit gives them and how they want to feel while wearing it.

When you meet a client for a new suit, do you know from their energy and appearance what suit they are probably coming for?
It is often a surprise. Each client is different and that is one of the wonderful things about bespoke tailoring. The suit is created especially for the client. The first fitting takes twelve to sixteen weeks, during which I see the client frequently and I get to know them well. I find out where they like to eat and drink and what’s happening in family life and work life. So I am not just fitting their body; I am also fitting their mind, their personality and who they want to portray in this suit. It all is very personal, and I love it.

How do you translate the client’s vision into a suit?
We talk a lot about fabrics and finishings. We can infuse personal elements into a suit. I once had a client who was a big fan of Burgundy wine, and we put a little travel corkscrew inside the suit. Another client plays in a football team with a lot of red in the club logo. For her bespoke jacket, we used red fabric under the collar and red lining as a reference to her football team. Perhaps you want to be able to wear both heels and flats with one pair of trousers. In that case, we can make trousers that can be lengthened and shortened. With a single button, you can turn up the trouser legs and wear flats while running errands during your lunch break. When you return to the office, you can attend your meeting in stilettos by unbuttoning the trouser legs. With these little constructions, the suit helps your daily life and shows who you are.

What makes a suit the signature Lawton suit?
The Lawton house style embodies three elements: the 1930s, the 1970s and rock & roll. Every Lawton suit has at least one of these three influences. In the 30s, women began wearing suits for the first time. They wore wide-legged trousers, jackets with strong shoulders, big lapels and projected confidence. The 70’s bring flamboyance, while rock & roll introduces darker vibes and a Mick Jagger-like confidence.

How do you decide the degree of structure in a suit’s silhouette?
I spend a lot of time analysing the body types of my clients, be that a man or a woman. Not only do I take their measurement but also photographs from the front, side and back. I constantly analyse how to ensure that a suit highlights the parts that the client wants to accentuate and minimise the parts they prefer to downplay. From a cutter’s perspective, I analyse how I can elongate and accentuate. It is a give-and-take process. I don’t want to offend anyone, but I also need to make sure that clients feel their best in the suit and that it is worn. I spend a great deal of time in making a suit; I want it to be loved and worn, not left unworn in the wardrobe.

What is the difference between bespoke tailoring for men and for women?
A woman’s suit takes a little bit longer and requires more fittings. From a cutting perspective, I find woman’s suits a bit more fun. There are more lumps and bumps to cut around, and I find it really satisfying when I hit the nail on the head, when everything is cut perfectly. For a woman’s jacket, it is particularly important that the dart at the bust point is placed correctly. In men jackets, it’s obviously less critical if the dart is slightly off. Women tend to have more varied body types than men. If the cut doesn’t suit her body type, then the jacket or trouser will not look right on her.

What do you think is the biggest difference between bespoke tailoring and fashion?
It’s about knowing when to create something for longevity rather than just for the season. That is a big difference between fashion and bespoke. Bespoke tailoring doesn’t follow trends as much. It is all about making clients aware of what suits their body type, and what will look great on them for many years, rather than chasing short-lived fashion trends.

What role does aftercare play in bespoke tailoring?
The aftercare ensures that your suits continue to serve you well. It involves proper cleaning, moth protection, and storing suits in cotton garment bags rather than plastic or polyester so that the fabric can breathe. Treating the wool fibre properly is paramount in aftercare. It involves a sponge & press rather than dry cleaning, as dry cleaning removes the natural oils from wool and can dry out the fabric. Sponge & press means removing surface stains with a damp sponge and steam. The heat eliminates bacteria, and the steam refreshes the garment. Repairs are also an important part of aftercare. If a button becomes loose or a seam comes undone, it is best to bring the suit back as soon as possible. We will repair it. Finally, aftercare includes wardrobe check-ups. I am fortunate that some of my clients order one or more suits every year, so I see them at least once a year. I will then ask how their older suits are doing. Do they need to let out or taken in?

What is it about bespoke tailoring that fascinates people?
I notice that some of my clients are genuinely interested in the craft itself. Bespoke tailoring has been long regarded as a trade, but after Covid there has been a resurgence. People want handmade items. When you have dedicated many years to mastering this craft, as I have, and strive to make the best suits possible, this renewed appreciation is wonderful. Clients who commission something handmade not only wear something that makes them look and feel good. They also support the industry and help keep the craft alive. I think that’s a lovely reason for them to come by.

Are there any Lawton trunk shows coming up soon in the Netherlands?
If the Netherlands want me to, I would love to come to the Netherlands for a trunk show (big laughter)!

Photography: Alex Natt

A few years ago, Jennifer van Haastert, designer of Moofers Clothing and owner of Moofers Fashion & Salon, was interviewed by Anke Verbeek for POM Magazine. Moofers Clothing is now a household name in The Hague. This spring, Anke Verbeek interviewed Jennifer once again in the Moofers Salon at the Toussaintkade in The Hague, to talk about the typical Moofers look and what the future holds for the label.

by Anke Verbeek

Three years ago, we did an interview here in your beautiful shop, talking about Moofers Clothing. How has life been for Moofers you since then?
Last time we spoke, we had just moved to this location at Toussaintkade. The new location is exactly what I hoped it would be. Our frequent customers have moved with us and now come to visit us here. The new location also allowed us to tap into the local market. Many of our new customers live in our new neighbourhood, but we also draw the attention of expats, tourists and day trippers.

And what has happened to the fashion label over the past three years?
We pay ever-increased attention to the fit of our designs. We have partnered with major fabric suppliers who also work with large French and Italian fashion houses. Nevertheless, our designs retain the celebrated Moofers look.

How would you describe that Moofers look?
Classic with an edge. Moofers designs are made of the finest fabrics. Our pieces are practical to wear and easy to combine with other pieces from our current collection and previous collections. But customers also buy our fashion as a luxury gift to themselves.

Have any items become a permanent part of your collections?
Of course. Our cashmere-blend sweater with the characteristically deep round-neck is a returning item. People come back to us for that sweater time and time again. Other returning pieces include our flared trousers and straight-leg trousers. They are part of each collection, each time in a different fabric.

What inspires your designs?
Generally a feeling I get or something I see. It could be a fabric, a colour or a shape. I then make a mental note. Clients are also a source of inspiration. Our current collection features a pleated skirt. That design was inspired by a dress one of our clients was wearing when she visited the shop. I loved that dress, especially the skirt part. It inspired the design of our A-line pleated midi-skirt. The skirt is part of the S/S ’25 collection, and we previously featured a winter version as well. Depending on the tops and shoes you combine it with, the skirt can help create a casual, business or festive look.

How do you process your inspiration?
I write it all down. At some point, I take the list of everything I have written down and form a complete collection – in my head. I form each collection in such a way that it accommodates the various parts of day-to-day life. You need a coat and clothes for work, but sometimes a casual look will do. Other moments require formal dress, and sometimes you need to dress for a party. Depending on the season, you might go to the beach or on holiday. I take this all into account when creating a collection.

The location at Toussaintkade in The Hague is not just a shop, it’s also a salon. How’s the salon doing?
The location is perfect for events. We have a circle of artists who exhibit their art here. Each year, we organise one or two events where artists tell visitors all about their work on display. We organise sneak peeks for each upcoming collection, where I show the samples for customers to try on and pre-order. Together with the jewellery designer, Marloes van der Toorn, we organised many events to introduce each new collection of her label MVDT. Last year September we saw our first archive sale, which was a great success.

What are your plans for Moofers for the coming years?
This year, another shop will be selling the Moofers label. Not a new Moofers shop but a different fashion shop, outside The Hague.

You’re going to sell Moofers Clothing outside this shop?
Yes. This year, we’ll start with one shop and we plan on adding another two or three shops next year. A very exciting next phase. I personally manage everything in the shop now, but that will change when we start selling our label in other shops.

And what does the future of Moofers look like?
I want Moofers to be known as a quality label with sustainability as its cornerstone. For me, sustainability is something that always comes first. That makes Moofers a brand of the present and the future, with designs that fit perfectly and are made of beautiful, sustainable, quality fabrics.